Just got back yesterday from a camping/hotel trip to Bay of LA and Mulege,

Changed money and crossed at San Isidro at 10 am, got tourist visas at the border. Couldn't have been easier, took ten minutes - the officer did not even look at our birth certificates - he was getting his shoes shined! (Our friends were hung up in Ensenada for a over an hour trying to get theirs.)

Stopped for a top off at a remote Pemex station before Colonet. ($3 per gal). Briefly questioned and waved through at check point in Maneadero.

Had lunch a Mama Espinosa's in El Rosario, good food, a must stop. She has three nice new rooms for 250 pesos per night.

Headed off into the desert to Cataviña for the night. Arrived about 6pm. Great hotel, very comfortable by any standards, $65 per night for A/C and cable TV. Local guy selling gas out of cans for about $2.80/gal. Some guys were working on the Pemex pump in the hotel parking lot. (Doubtful whether they will get it working on "Mexican time.")

Road in excellent condition. Looked like it was recently repaved, even saw surveyors and a grader working on the shoulder in some places. Next day saw some cave paintings and went down to Bay of LA. Local selling gas at turn-off. Road gets rougher but easily passable.

Bay of LA is a rugged paradise. Weather perfect, slight breeze. Stayed at Camp Gecko for three days, ate fresh Dorado that a fellow camper caught and we grilled on the beach, then it got very hot and we headed south.

Fruit inspector checked our coolers, sprayed our tires (10 pesos) outside Guerrero Negro. Got gas and cash, and hit the road. At Military check-point outside San Ignacio we were questioned and they again made a feeble inspection of our coolers, then we were waved through. They were more interested in flirting with my girlfriend then a serious check. Side note: our couple of friends were creeped out when they went through and the head military guy got in the driver's seat and closed the door, with my friend's girlfriend in the passenger seat, while he was out opening the back of the van up. The soldier started asking questions like "Do you think I'm handsome?". The girl played dumb and then they were on their way.

Stopped in San Ignacio, very unique oasis town, worth a stop to check out the old church and town square. Then on to Santa Rosalia - bought excellent breads at El Boleo. Saw Effiel's metal church and french colonial town. Arrived in Mulege at sunset and stayed at La Serenidad - very nice for $44 per night. I think we were the only people there.

Tried to eat at Almeja for two days but they were closed, they kept saying to come back manaña. Found an excellent restaurant "Equipales", stuffed ourselves on garlic shrimp and awesome carrot soup (dinner for two plus drinks for $24).

Hit the beach at El Requeson - perfect weather, warm water and slight breeze. There was no one around to collect any fee.

Left Mulege and headed north for a long drive to El Rosario (10 hours) - stayed at Mama Espinosa's freshly painted and very clean motel and topped off at Pemex (open 24 hours). Next day explored beach at San Quintin and fish market in Ensenada. One last lleno at Pemex superstation at the deadly left turn outside Tijuana. This full-serve station is so efficient and clean that it puts U.S. stations to shame. Crossed back to San Diego about 5:30 pm a week after we started.

All in all we had a great time with no problems whatsoever. We found the people very friendly and helpful. I was initially very concerned with safety, especially on remote beaches, but my fear was unfounded. Nobody wanted any hassles. With so few people around in general I felt my girlfriend and myself, our car and gear were safer there than anywhere in Los Angeles. As long as you are courteous and respectful and keep aware of your surroundings you will be fine. I have heard, and still hear so many horror stories about "bandidos" and the "federales" - usually by people who have never gone further than Tijuana. If you're a drunken idiot looking for trouble I'm sure you'll find it. In talking to fellow travelers, the biggest problems people had was lack of adequate cash in pesos (small denominations) and poor fuel cost management. Outside the big towns credit cards are worthless, cash is king, but you can usually find someone to sell you fuel.

Baja is a true diamond in the rough. I felt that the Mexicans are making a concerted effort to cater to the gringo traveler because tourism helps everybody, and a few negative experiences may scare away many. We have been home for 48 hours and we're already planning our next trip.