BAJA TRIP SUMMARY
MAR - APR 1998

Connie and Don Hall
Richmond, B. C. Canada

We were first time RV travelers to the Baja. Our plan was to do it on our own, being reasonably experienced RV travelers. We carefully downloaded, read and carried with us, all the posted reports. They were a big help, particularly Fred's information and the Len Eden report.

A few of the helpful hints that we used or picked up on the way.

Vehicle Insurance

If you expect to be in Mexico longer than 18 days, get an annual policy. Get the policy beforehand, through Vagabundos or Escapees [not AAA] or Lewis & Lewis [see Fred's report]. Alternatively, use the Tecate' crossing and stop at the mall just before the border. The stores there provide a full range of Mexican travel services, including cheap annual vehicle insurance and money exchange. If you think that you are going to be less than 18 days but are unsure, buy the minimum. You can buy additional throughout the Baja.

Tourist Cards

It is easier to park an RV on the US side of the border. There is a McDonalds just before the crossing below Yuma [San Luis] or the small mall before Tecate', where you can park and walk to the border to get your card and get it stamped. Visitor permits are available in 30, 60, 90 or 180 days. Be sure to get long enough to more than cover your stay. Passport or visa & photo ID are required.

Money exchange

The best rates are just before, or just over, the border; or come out of a Mexican ATM. Again, walk to the border and exchange your money . Get at least 2,000P. Try to get some small bills and coins. Because the peso is going down compared to the US dollar, few Mexicans keep pesos, so small stores and vendors won't have change. Only larger grocery stores will give you extra change.

Money

Use pesos for everything you can, you will get the best rate; however, accommodation is usually quoted in U. S. Dollars. Gas stations and restaurants will rip you off, if you try to use U. S. cash. Don't even think about Traveler's Checks. They can only be cashed at the current rate at a bank with a passport for identification. The lineups at banks are looooong. Stores & restaurants charge a fee or give a very poor exchange rate and they will give you pesos in change. Keep enough US cash to get home with. We ran into a situation on our return, where all the US ATM's were down because of an AT & T problem.

Purchasing

When purchasing anything to be measured, i. e. gasoline, seafood, meat, etc., ask for a peso amount, i. e. 100 pesos of gasoline, 50 pesos of shrimp, etc. Don't try to ask for a quantity, it's not the custom . Make sure that you have the exact amount for your purchase. You will often get the wrong change, if you don't. At a gas station, stop so that you can see the pump numbers and don't hand the attendant your money [exact amount] until he stops the pump. Make sure that it's cleared before he starts. The worst stations are at Guerrero Negro, San Ignacio, and Santa Rosalia. Gas up at Villa Jesus Maria, it's self serve.

Yuma to San Felipe

Crossed border at San Luis de Colorado. Road reasonably good. 3 military checks along the way. We stayed at Campo San Felipe, $12.00 US/night. Full hookup, on the beach, walking distance to town shops, restaurants etc. This was a good initiation to the Baja life-style. South of town take in the beach "Playa Punta Estrella & Valley of Giant Cordon Cacti.

San Felipe to Punta Banda via Hwy. 3

Road poor, lots of pot holes. Ensenada streets were in very bad shape due to flooding. Limited street name signs. Stayed 8 miles west off hwy. 1 on Road 23 to La Bufadora. Villarino Campground, $10.00 US night, with or without hookup. Clean showers. Road to La Bufadora is narrow & winding; parking would be difficult for large rigs. La Jolla Beach Camp suffered some serious flood damage.

Punta Banda to Santa Maria

Hwy. 1, rough in places with 5 miles of re-paving (single lane traffic). Good tourist info center north of San Quintin. El Pabellon RV Park- (15.5 km south of San Quintin, turn west 1 km past Santa Maria turn off) $5.00 US/night with or without hook up. Showers & toilets. Water not potable & showers left film on hair (not recommended). Beautiful beach & sand dunes (lots of wildflowers on dunes).

El Pabellon to Bahia de Los Angeles

Gassed up at El Rosario. No gas at Bahia de Los Angeles. Stayed at old government campsite (next to turtle research station). $2.00 us/night, dumping available, no water or electricity. Museum in town worth a visit. Beautiful vista entering town. Good area for fishing & birding. Looked at Greeco's Campground, 6 km south of town over moderately rough road, [$6/night for RV or $10/night for rustic cabin]. Rocky beach, sandy sites, water & showers.

Bahia de Los Angeles to Guerrero Negro

Extensive military check Hwy. 1, 10 km south of Bahia Los Angeles junction. Agriculture & tourist card inspection just north of Guerrero Negro. Stayed at Benito Juarez RV park, north of Guerrero Negro, $10/night, full hook up. Excellent drinking water - Fill up. Not impressed with Guerrero Negro. Next time would consider staying at Scammon's Lagoon, Languna Oji Liebre, south of town, 27 km west over salt mine road ($3.00, no facilities) Whale watching tours available from here.

Guerrero Negro to San Ignacio

First 100 km excellent road, then rough, lots of potholes, limited shoulder. San Ignacio is a beautiful oasis; be sure to visit the church & museum. Good meal & service at Toda's restaurant. Stayed at Juan Chon's campground (on left on way into town), $3 US, no facilities except a rustic outhouse. Beautiful setting in a date palm orchard on the river. Other camping facilities available. One of our favorite stops.

San Ignacio to Mulege

Road not great, very narrow & winding, north of Santa Rosalia. Take care going around curves. Mulege is a must walk about town. Gas station in town & on highway, no bank. Stayed at Bahia El Coyote (turn left at ranch sigh south of Mulege) $5 US with palapa, ($4 without), pit toilets. Lots of shore birds, good swimming, canoeing or kayaking. Several other beach campgrounds in this area. Vendors visited daily with fresh fruit, vegetables, breads, bottled water & fresh seafood.

Mulege to San Carlos

Hwy. 22 not bad but loose gravel on road in sections. Stayed on beach (fee by donation) water & garbage pickup available. Whale watching, 600 pesos per boat for 2 hours. Very windy. Not much for shopping.

San Carlos to La Paz

Stayed at the Aquamarina RV Park, $16.80 US/night [electricity extra], garden setting, very pretty. Pool, central patio, laundry, showers, beach access. Met Richard and Mary Lou, they we very helpful. Looked for Fred but he was away. La Paz has all facilities of a larger US or Canadian town. [CCC grocery store very well stocked, clean & fresh]. Gave the RV an oil change & lube. Can recommend the Quaker State facility, just west of the CCC. Visited churches, museum, art center & malecon, etc.

La Paz to Todos Santos

Road work for 4 km from km 36 on Hwy. 19. Todos Santos is very clean, lots of restoration work being done. Very commercial. Stayed at the Playa Los Cerritos 11-12 km south of Todos Santos ($3.00 us/night. At KM 64 [no sign]. Great beach, rolling waves, lots of surfers, gorgeous sunsets. Toilets & showers out of service. Water for them is trucked in but some of the campers took it all for personal use. Clean up is neglected.

Todos Santos to San Jose del Cabo

One section of road work. Stayed at the Brisa Del Mar RV resort with Donna, Oscar and Naza. $10.00 US for unserviced or tenting to $28.00 for beach front with hook-up. Laundry, pool, restaurant and bar on site. The only RV Park in the Cabos that is on the beach. Tour Cabo San Lucas & San Jose del Cabo from here.

San Jose to Los Barrilles

Road narrow with little or no shoulder. Camped El Cardonal's Hide-A-Way [23 km on gravel road north of Los Barrilles]; $5.00 US/night, 8.00 with hookup. Full service motel & a boat rental. Private beach.

Los Barrilles to Ventana [hwy. 286 south of La Paz]

Stayed at the beach park at Ventana, $3.50/night, water & showers. Good wind surfing beach; shady & sunny sites.

Ventana to Pichilingue

Camped at El Tecolote beach - no fee; 3 restaurants, boat/kayak rentals. Water for sale, shower rentals. Nice beach. Canoed Balandra Bay.

Pichilingue to Ciudad Constitucion

Camped at Manfred's RV Park [north end of town], $12.00 US. Pull through sites, full hookups, shade, pool, showers, restaurant [Austrian]. Very nice park, clean, friendly owners [Manfred and Eda]. Probably the best buy on the Baja.

Ciudad Constitution to Juncalito

Villa Insurgentes to Juncalito, lots of sharp curves, use caution & obey speed signs. Stayed on beach - no charge as it's a National Park, no facilities, watch out for soft sand areas. Water & dump station at RV Park in village of Puerto Escondido, 5 miles south. Hiking, swimming, boating.

Juncalito to San Lucas Cove

Re-paving Juncalito to Loreto. Stayed at San Lucas Cove RV Park 15 km south of Santa Rosalia, $6.00 US/night; 35/week; 120/month; no hookup, poor water, showers, flush toilets, very inconvenient dump station, lots of shore birds. Popular with American sport fishermen with boats. Did not feel welcomed as Canadians.

San Lucas to San Ignacio

Explored Santa Rosalia - worth the visit. Stayed at Juan Chon/s in San Ignacio again, canoed the river. A nice easy late afternoon paddle.

San Ignacio to Santa Ines [2 km south of Cataviña]

Camped at El Rancho Ynez $4.00 US, shade trees, fire pits, flush toilets, good water. Nice area for hiking, interesting rock formations, cacti & natural rock gardens.

Santa Ines to Punta Banda

Cataviña to El Rosario lots of pot holes. A very extensive Military stop. Stayed at Villarina campground again. Quiet and convenient for exploration of Ensenada. Really enjoyed Ensenada on our return. It's definitely the best shopping and services.

Punta Banda to Tecate

Hwy. 3 very scenic drive, road about as good as it gets on the Baja. Couple of wineries along the way. Crossed border & stayed at Cuyamaca Rancho State Park, California.

General Comments:

Use ATM machines for cash. Most main cities have them. We were able to use a Cirrus acceptable card throughout. We found it difficult to get small coinage, save what you get for market day shopping or small purchases. With two exceptions we found that the water was good. We did use bottled water for drinking, but local water for cooking, with no ill affects. In general the weather was good [only one night with rain]; however, we experienced more wind than we had expected. We were stopped at Military Posts 14 times on the way south and 9 times going north.