First Visit to Baja, December 4 - 18, 2000

Driving a 20' Truck Camper (with British Columbia plates) came to the Tecate border around 3:30 pm on a Monday. (Incidentally, the drive along 94 via Jacumba and Boulevard was very pretty but very winding). The US side of the border has a couple of General Stores, ATM, fuel (not cheap as I remember), and at least one place to get Mexican insurance. It was just over US$80 for two weeks, $130ish for fully comprehensive.

There was no line to cross the border and we weren't stopped at all. Had had a long day driving to get to the border so decided to stay in town for the night. Drove round town and checked four hotels - Hotel Tecate, Motel El Paraiso, Hotel Frontera and Hotel Okakopa Iwa. First three were around US$20, last was around US$54 for a room with 2 beds. Not surprisingly this was the nicest, but it was way over budget. Stayed next door at the Frontera.

Memories of musty dingy third-world cheap hotels. Five minutes walk to the border crossing, about the same to the plaza. Tecate easy to drive around once you've mastered the one way system. Ate at El Dragon (near the brewery): big portions of OK Chinese for about US$7 for entrees.

Next day walked to the border to ask about Tourist Cards - Immigration not open until 9 so had good breakfast at Restaurant Intimo, used ATM, did good shop at big well-stocked Calimax supermarket. Back at the border, filled in Tourist Card form then had to take form across road to bank opposite Immigration, pay about US$18 each (we paid in pesos), then take forms back to office to get our passports back. Whole thing took 10 - 15 mins. (Note: at no other stage did anybody look at our passports or Tourist Card forms - next time was a passport check when we flew out of San Diego to London).

Drove off on Mex 3 towards Ensenada: nice scenery, road quite winding and hilly but condition OK. Began to get used to being overtaken on "blind" hills and bends! Road through Ensenada slow and tedious – "alto" (stop) signs, traffic lights, roadworks. Bought diesel at one of the Pemex's. (Note: see return journey for stop in Ensenada).

Took road to La Bufadora (turn off at Maneadero). Few potholes on this road, some quite nice coastal views, then dozens and dozens of stalls (food, souvenirs etc). We parked (no one asked for money despite a sign saying that there was a charge) and had a look at the blow hole. Wouldn't go hours out of my way to see it, and no reason to stop for very long: not a "must see" but quite fun. Don't expect peace and quiet!

Back on Mex 1 and shortly back to good scenery: this continued and improved through Santo Tomas and San Vicente (brief stop at the latter to drive to the mission (dirt road steep but OK))most of the way to Colonet. (Note: for side trip to coast from this area see return).

Had thought of going to Parque Nacional Sierra San Pedro Martir: the sun had set (around 4:45 pm) and we set off up the dirt road towards the park and stopped in the little village of San Telmo (maybe 10km along the road). Parked by the little village shop near the ruins of a church. Decided next morning that we wouldn't do the 130 km ish EACH WAY drive to the park, so headed back to Mex 1 and south.

The stretch south was OK, not overinspiring, but the scenery came good again a few km before El Rosario. Stopped and diesel'd up, got fresh water from a machine in the supermarket. Great scenery for nearly 200 km from here. Did a side trip to the mission ruins at San Fernando Velicata (if you've got the Moon Baja book note that the ruins are actually around the Km 121 - anyhow, they're signposted, just before a little café on the right. Not spectacular ruins but nice to get off Mex 1 and actually into the "bush".

Also did a trip out to El Marmol (the old onyx quarry) - again signed, to the left. Quite atmospheric, and once again good to get into the desert.

Superb scenery as you near Cataviña, big piles of boulders adding to the hills and cacti. Stopped for a bite in town. Pemex closed. (Note: for overnight stop nearby see return). Incredible sunset. Didn't want to drive in the dark but wanted to get past the junction (with the road to Bahia de L.A.) before stopping. Pulled onto a big sandy area on the right about 14km towards Bahia after the junction and drove a short way along a track. Stopped for the night among huge cacti.

Great sunrise next morning - wandered among the wonderful and weird desert vegetation and climbed a hillock to look out over miles of beautiful empty desert in the golden early morning glow. Nice scenery all the way to Bahia de LA, but the road wasn't oversmooth. Potholes and ridges (like washboarding but along the road rather than across it!). No problems, just had to drive more slowly. Hardly any traffic.

Stayed at Camp Gecko - can't remember how much - US$6 per night? Nice people, good hot showers, laid back quiet place. The road from town (about 8 km) quite stony in places but no problems. You might be able to buy / get some fish from some other guests but otherwise bring all your supplies with you - no café or store. Virtually no wind. Rented kayaks (US$3 an hour). Nice walk around the bay (heading in the direction away from town). Beach OK but nothing special. Desert meeting coast reminded me of the Dead Sea and Red Sea in Israel. Bought some diesel from a man with a barrel on the outskirts of town as you come in from Camp Gecko ("Llantera" sign where road is at it's rockiest!).

Back to the junction and scenery still great most of the way to Villa Jesus Maria. (Had enough fuel to get to Guerrero Negro, but otherwise this would've been the first official diesel since El Rosario). (Note: for good coffee in Rosarito see return).

Agricultural checkpoint just N of Guerrero Negro. 10 pesos for truck to be sprayed (20 for people with big rigs?). Were asked if we had any fruit/veg. Said yes. The guy wanted to have a look. Showed him our fridge with 3 apples, 2 bananas, 1 orange, 2 onions. The guy said it was very bad that we had them and that next time they would be confiscated. Puzzled, I asked if by "next time" he meant when we came back north. No, he meant if and when we came south again. Anyhow, he didn't take anything and sent us on our way. Seems very haphazard as we met other people who had had some or all taken. Worst comes to the worst, stock up at the supermarket in G.N. We shopped there and filled up with water at a drinking water shop. (Note: for side trip to coastal sand dunes nearby see return).

Road from G.N. to Vizcaino quite flat and straight. Then gets scenic again as you near San Ignacio. A chance to get off Mex 1 and drive through a date palm oasis to a characterful town with a lovely church and pleasant plaza! Stayed at El Padrino (opposite La Pinta between 1 and town): 80 pesos / night without hookups. Good hot showers. Ate at Renee's just off the plaza at the end furthest from the church. Very good fresh fish for about US$ 6.

Next morning seemed grey and overcast: as we drove on we realised it was like a US west coast coastal fog sitting in the valley. After about 15 minutes the road climbed out of it into beautiful sunshine. Again nice scenery most of the way to Santa Rosalia. Much bigger than San Ignacio, but some nice side streets and lots of shops, cafes, etc.. Looked at the famous church and wandered up the hill.

Then on to Mulege, again a nice town, this one a bit more foreign tourist-orientated. Parked in town and started walking along the river towards the sea. Maybe 2 or 3 km. Had good fish tacos (3 for 30 pesos) at the very pleasant restaurant where the road brought us to the sea. Hitch-hiked back (the road is fine). Drove out to the mission - great setting. Best bit was climbing the small hill behind the church for lovely views of the river and palm trees. Onwards and southwards!

Stopped for the night at Playa El Requeson, round Km 93 as I remember. The beach(es) here are actually an isthmus of sand connecting the mainland to an island maybe 500 metres by about 50 metres. At high tide (whilst we were there anyway) you had to wade across about 6 feet of water maybe 2 or 3 feet deep as the sea came in across the sand strip. Very nice place: clean pit toilets, 40 pesos / night: you might be able to buy fish (and maybe even groceries) from the locals. The island is good for rambling and seclusion. Great sunrises. Apparently the sea is cleaner on the north side, but it's probably a bit deeper on the S (which is where people swam). Lots of campers collecting shellfish. Quite breezy at times. 2 nights.

More good scenery to Loreto (and most of the way to Ciudad Insurgentes), the most ,,, "Mediterranean"? town we had come to. Very clean and nicely maintained centre, not really dusty at all. Breakfast at the Café Ole. Used the Internet café almost next door. Excruciatingly slow and frustrating (30 pesos for 30 mins)! Diesel at Pemex and onwards.

After the two Ciudades (Insurgentes and Constitucion) the best stretch of road (in terms of driving quality) yet, but nothing special scenic-wise. Turn the music up and blast south! A bit slower (and more scenic) back in the hills, but made good time all the way to La Paz.

Stayed at Aquamarina RV Park, left off the main road along Nayarit. Not cheap at 170 pesos / night but very well kept, plants, trees, pool, very clean showers, etc. and hookups. About 20 - 30 minutes walk to town centre. Downside? The factory next door: we moved to a space on the road (rather than the factory) side - much quieter.

Ate in town at Bistro Francais, lovely building, good meal (fish brochette) and not too expensive - about 70 pesos for the entrée. Excellent ice cream for dessert at Bing's nearby (there's also a Bing's on the corner of the Plaza).

Wandered town the next day, drinks on the waterfront, sat in the plaza, e-mailed (nice place facing the sea near where Ocampo meets the waterfront) - 30 pesos 30 minutes but quick! Ate excellent tacos, quesadillas, papa rellena etc at one of the Superburro places (the one on the left as you head towards town from the Aquamarina RV park) - the one closer to town (on the right) was closed that evening, Excellent food and about 45 pesos each for loads!

Next day drove out past the ferry port at Pichilingue: about 25 km to the beaches at Playas Balandra and Tecolote. The former looked much quieter and less developed than Tecolote, so we parked there. Had a great day wandering around the beautiful coves, wading across the bay to some small dunes, swimming, sunning etc. In the morning to cross the bay you could wade (waist deep) almost all the way, swimming maybe 5 yards. In the afternoon the water wasn't higher than knee deep.

Small downside - I got (what I can only imagine was) "stingray'd" once on each foot on my early afternoon crossing. Drew blood and stung like bee stings for about three hours, then fine. I'm told I should've been shuffling. No resulting problems. Fab day!

Fuelled up and headed back north. Diesel had run out at Loreto (more expected next day) but we had enough. Stopped again for another good night at El Requeson beach - this time no one collecting money. Beach'd next day until 2pm, then set off. Got fuel in Mulege, and stopped again in San Ignacio (same campground, same restaurant).

Topped up fuel in Guerrero Negro, and did a great side-trip out to the sand dunes. The road to take is the one to the airport: after the airport we took one of the (good) dirt roads that appeared on the right and seemed to be leading to the dunes! Parked and wandered for a couple of hours.

Stopped for the night near Cataviña - just after the big vado N of Catavina turned right on a track just below a palapa. Followed a steepish track down to a sandy area. Nice guy from the palapa came to collect 40 pesos. Very nice spot - it's where the cave art is. Great morning wander / clamber among the boulders and hills.

Stopped in San Quintin - Internet place above a bakery on the right heading north - 20 pesos for an hour, quick. Drove N and eventually turned left about 6 or 7 km N of San Vicente on the pretty road to Ejido Erendira. There the road deteriorated (the township is also not one of Baja's most attractive) and we followed it N along the coast. Just past a hostel called Coyote Cal's we stopped for the night a few yards from the crashing sea by some rocky outcrops reminiscent of the N Cal / Oregon / Washington coast.

Back the same way next day and on to Ensenada. This time went into town taking a left at the Gigante supermarket past the hospital, then a right along the main road near the waterfront. Parked a few blocks from the Mercado de Mariscos and after a waterfront wander, checked out the aforementioned fish market and ate excellent fish and shrimp tacos at one of the many nearby stands. Cheap and delicious!

After leaving town, took the toll road (20 pesos), stopped at the Mirador (great coastal and bay views on this stretch) as far as La Mision, where we switched to the free road. To be honest, the villages, towns and coastal views from here to TJ were nothing special (especially after the beauty and emptiness) and the going was slow.

Eventually got to TJ and followed the "San Diego" signs. Took about an hour from when we first ground to a halt to actually crossing. It didn't help that two or three left hand border lanes were closed so on our side you had maybe 4 or 5 lanes of traffic bottlenecking into 1 or 2 border lanes. The pushing in and line-jumping was very un-English! When we got there we were waved straight through.

A few general comments:

Weather: generally great, sunny days in the 70s, some cool but not cold nights. No rain but twice San Fran / Oregon style coastal fog (once around San Ignacio - not even on the coast! - other time was on the way back, El Rosario to Colonet.

Checkpoints: no big deal. Sometimes waved through, sometimes asked where we were headed / coming from. A few times they asked me to open the door of the camper: I found that if I opened the door and climbed in, they followed me and looked around a bit, but if I just opened the door they'd just stick their heads in for a few seconds. Once one of the guys asked me to open the fridge, saw some beer there, picked one up and looked at me hopefully. I shook my head. He then picked up 2 of the 4 diet coke cans and again looked at me hopefully. I thought "what the hell" and said OK. It wasn't the slightest bit heavy and if I'd said no it wouldn't have been a problem I'm sure.

Diesel: 4.18 pesos per litre at all the Pemex's, about 30-40% more the one time I bought from a barrel man. Loreto was the only place where they'd run out for the day. No problemss with "reset" scams - I used to reset the pump myself each time - but a guy I met had just been caught out in Santa Rosalia on this one.

Roads: generally better than I expected. I generally drove at 100 km / hour, slowed down a lot through towns (and of course for bends, etc). Vados were all dry and the only bad one I remember was just S of Cataviña. Topes were all signed or visible (when going slowly through towns). The road to Bahia de L.A. was in worse condition, but not too bad. My camper is quite wide, so the width of the road caused a few nervous moments when overtaking / being overtaken, or worse when something big was coming towards me round a bend. I tried to avoid driving in the dark (not easy with the light going by 5 in the north, 6 in the south).

Food: more stuff available than I'd expected, though if you're fussy bring your favourites with you. Filled our drinking water containers from machines or Drinking Water shops. Neither of us got sick at all. Insects: a few mozzie or "no see'um" bites, nothing serious. Saw no spiders or snakes.

Other: most "foreigners" were from BC - far more than California even. And not surprisingly on our way back (getting closer to Christmas) there was a lot more RV traffic heading south than when we'd come down two weeks earlier.