Last Friday, December 28th, we took my nephew from back east
down to Mexico for the day. Some observations:
Tecate
Crossing here is as easy as ever. With the exception
of population and maquiladora growth, the character of the town
hasn't changed much since I first visited in 1977, relative to
the other border cities. We visited the Tecate (Cuauhtemoc)
Brewery, where we were told that it is closed for tours until
January 15th. We did get our free one can of beer each in the
beer garden. Everyone else in the garden appeared to be a
local. There is a small but nice gift shop next to the beer
garden that sells beer paraphenalia at what seems to be very low
prices, e.g. a Tecate beer tray was only $2.60 US. Finally,
there was a line of cars extending east on Highway 2 almost to
the glorieta and the police station. I assumed that this was
the line to get back to the U.S. David E., can you shed some
light on this? Is this the place to join the line into the
U.S.?
Here's the response from David Eidell as posted on the Message
Board:
"In regards to the "cola" (line) in Tecate, threading back down
Mex 2, you are exactly correct. It should be noted that the
normal exit route for RV'ers who would find it difficult to turn
around on a city street, would benefit from making a RIGHT turn
at the signal at the intersection of the main city plaza (instead
of going straight up the hill in the direction of the border).
After you make a right proceed one block while looking to see if
traffic is backed up (up the hill to your left). If you think
traffic may be backed up to this intersection then look down the
street to the very next intersection. If cars are backed up to
this intersection, and around the corner and all the way back to
the glotietta (this is on Mex 2 now not the road to Ensenada),
drive on past the clogged intersection and up to the "glorietta"
and you have the legal and physical means to make a U-turn here
even the longest converted bus towing a car. After the U-turn,
stay in the right lane and queue up behind the string of cars.
Relax, it'll be an hour wait but not the four hour wait like Otay
or San Ysidro. Hint: Do not block cross street intersections.
There will be a scad of traffic cops around and they send
prospective interceptors all the way to the back of the line. If
you are towing and or really long, stay in the outside of the two
lines (the left line) to swing wide onto the main border crossing
street and up to the US Customs Kiosks."
Tecate to Ensenada
This drive is still beautiful. The road
is rough leaving Tecate then gets better several miles south.
It's a nice drive and a good alternative to the toll road for
those who aren't in a hurry to get to Ensenada.
Ensenada
We were three of the few gringos on Lopez Mateos.
The merchants here seem to be hurting for business. I was told
that Mexico's recession started in 2000, before ours. This and
the events of 9-11 have caused a drop in tourists. Ensenada is
still a great alternative to Tijuana and a more relaxed place to
take visitors from back east for shopping and dining.
La Fonda
The hotel is still operating. The restaurant
reopened 200 feet north of the old location, on the first floor
of Dimitri's house. It is a work in progress with light and
unobtrusive construction continuing. There is both indoor and
outdoor seating. Dimitri is working hard to reestablish the
restaurant as the place it was in the former location. He has
all new employees, who to a person provided better service than
we got in the old restaurant. Dimitri didn't want to talk about
the ongoing labor dispute, however, an expatriate who sounded
knowledgeable provided the following:
The labor contract is 30 years old and was causing Dimitri to
lose money.
The shutdown resulted from the workers striking.
The old workers were frequently dishonest, but because of
Mexican labor law it is far too costly to fire an employee.
Therefore, it is cheaper to keep them around, despite the losses
they cause to the business.
There is a lawsuit pending. The old workers are seeking,
collectively, around $100,000 US. Listening to the above
reminded me of Luis Morones, the corrupt Mexican labor boss who
was deported in the 1930's with President Plutarco Calles.
Tijuana
We ate dinner at Carnitas Uruapan. The atmosphere
with the mariachis is arguably difficult to top. Carnitas for
three and a round of drinks was $39.00 USD before tip. We
crossed into the U.S. at San Ysidro, approaching the border
from the east (Zona Rio). Unlike the last time, it was shorter
than coming from the toll road and downtown. We waited about 30
minutes to cross. For a Friday evening around 8:00, the wait
was short. In my 24 years of crossing the border, with many
different people and in varying states of consciousness, I have
never had such an easy time getting past the inspector. While
everyone else was getting secondary-type searches in primary,
ours was next to nothing. The inspector asked my wife her
citizenship. When the inspector asked if my nephew and I were
also U.S. citizens, we answered "uh-huh," which was followed by
us being waved through. Neither of us had to say "U.S." nor we
were asked where we had been or what we were bringing back, a
change from the past. Needless to say, with recent events we
were expecting much more. In summary, Northern Baja California
is still a great place to take visitors from out of the area for
a day trip. Although you won't find as many bargains as in
pre-NAFTA times, it is still worth your time to see and do
things you won't find north of the border.