I returned from a trip to Baja on Tuesday, May 19, 1998 and was, to say the least, incredibly disappointed in the experience. I have been traveling the Baja for 17 years and have never encountered so many police, militia and others in authority who are asking for a buck. We were travelling to Punta Chivato.

South of Ensenada, the "fun" began. We were waived past a truck which appeared to be stuck with a flat tire; after passing the truck, a policeman appeared out of nowhere and accused us of speeding and reckless driving. The entire thing appeared to be a set-up. I am used to these encounters in metropolitan areas like TJ and Ensenada, but have always thought that this type of corrupt behavior was relatively non-existent in the countryside. It cost us $150 to get rid of the policeman, after threats of impounding our car and being taken to jail.

Thereafter, we were checked by the military on four different occasions between Santo Tomás and Santa Rosalia. While the military was generally cordial, it was nevertheless quite disconcerting to see the amount of ammunition which they all carry. Aside from the stretch from Ensenada to San Vicente (where a large amount of roadwork is being performed), as well as stretches south of Catavina, the road is generally in good shape. Also, there is a "new" road from Highway 1 south of Santa Rosalia to Punta Chivato; although it is still dirt, the washboard isn't bad and the road is much straighter. We drove between 40 and 50 mph without difficulty and shortened the 40 minute trip to 20 minutes.

Our experience at the hotel was disappointing. The grounds look shabby and the pool was without water. The food was marginal. And the rates have gone up to $61.50 for 2; $10 for each additional person. The room was clean, but needed attention.

In Mulegé, things seem fairly normal; however, after the numerous checkpoints we encountered, as well as the greedy cop, we were never able to relax like we always had in the past. Others with whom we spoke had the same feeling.

On the return trip, we encountered the checkpoints as well as the man in Guerrero Negro who was seeking tourist cards. I had my passport, but it wasn't enough. By that point, I had had it with the entire experience and became somewhat agitated. The man let us go without a bribe.

I live in New York City and made the cross-country trek to return to my beloved Baja for some real R & R; needless to say, I returned more stressed out than when I left. What a sad statement from someone who lives in Manhattan. While the checkpoints may be Mexico's answer to be a "good neighbor," they are frightening and completely worthless, not to mention excessive. I hope that the government has the good sense to realize that there are other ways to be a "good neighbor."

Good luck to all of you who decide to venture south; be advised, however, that Baja is not the same place it was 5 years ago.