I just got back yesterday from a trip down to my house in Todos
Santos and my "ranchito" in Pescadero in Baja Sur. I did drive
down to Cabo for a dive at Chileno reef.
Your website is consulted before each trip (3 a year for me, 1
for my brother) and has been very helpful. It also helps dispel
some of the "rumors" out there. I have travelled in Mexico for
the past 40 years and these "rumors" are usually baseless.
Untrue stories told me just before leaving: you need a copy of
your vehicle's pink slip, you can't get a tourist card past
Tijuana, military searches are severe. Some changes are
happening, however.
The trip was from middle of October to November 10, 1997. Road
report from John & Peggy Rahkola is accurate. Some additional
striping being done along with paving south of Santo Tomas.
Optical cable being laid along side the highway for the
entire length of Baja. This is being buried and done by
special machines and by hand. Pretty impressive. Soon a
world-class phone service will result. It is necessary to be
aware of this construction activity on rocky bends in the road
where work is done with pick and shovel. Two sharp curves are
being cut out north of La Paz. Big machines are cutting into
the hillsides to straighten the road. Existing road still in
use.
We had four military checks going down and seven going back up.
All were polite and respectful. Some limited searches. They
did want to see a tourist card, and some wanted a photo
ID.
Ensenada immigration almost didn't give a friend his tourist
card based only on a driver's license. They wanted birth
certificate or voter's receipt ("with a stamp"). I use a
passport and that works best. Do get tourist cards now!
Baja is really green. Lake Chapala is full of water (seen that
other years too). Road is generally in the best condition I've
seen in 10 years. Locals in Baja Sur say that plants are being
seen that have not been seen in 60 years!! My little "ranchito"
is a jungle. Lots of grass all over Baja. Hope that won't
result in wildfires this summer. Two good rainfall years have
made the land happy. Billions of butterflies are happy too.
Went to San Javier out of Loreto again. Francesca, who shows
you around the church, would like more tourists and says the
puebla could really use used clothing and toys for the kids.
Her house is three down from the church.
We went down to Agua Verde. Gad! That road is the worst I've
seen, ever. The hurricane washed out so much that there was
just enough room for my tires to fit (Toyota 4X4). Straight 500
feet down the Sierra if we missed. The gov't and ranchers are
working on it. Nice spot, good people.
Went partly down the road to LA Bay. Potholes were filled at
least up to road to Tinaje de Yubay turnoff.
This was, by far, the easiest trip down ever. The road was
good, people were friendly, helpful, and in good humor. A smile
and a wave certainly go a long ways.