I am extremely safety conscious when driving, and wanted to
drive the winding part up to San Quintin since Ray is always
getting his foot into it, and I just wanted to get out in one
piece. Also for those who know me (freediver) I ended up giving
up booze about 2 years ago cause every drink would make me feel
like I had a spear shot right through my gall bladder area
(pancreatitis), and I never smoked, and don't do any drugs.
(Giving up booze is a good thing especially if you ever get in a
wreck!)
We made easy time and had lunch there around 1:30 or
2 PM. I felt good and offered to drive up to San Vincente - this
worked well with us getting there around 4 PM Sunday. It had
then started to mist, with us firing up the windshield wipers
about every three minutes to wipe the drops off the windshield.
Given the deteriorating conditions I said I would continue on to
Santo Tomas and change drivers there.
I was going about 30 MPH with a big line of cars following at a
reasonably spaced distance behind me. We were around K-marker
79, coming up on a blind corner, and a military tranport vehicle,
at high speed, comes blasting around the corner straddling the
yellow line. I react by applying the brakes as it is
straightening out and, as the brakes are catching, the front
left brake locks up. This now puts our truck in about a 45
degree lateral skid - the truck is now not controllable, and we
are closing on the military vehicle in a collision course.
I now am thinking our life is over because we are clearly going
to have a left front - left front head-on collision, with no
recourse. This occurs in what seems like slow motion with a
wave of glass coming into my face, and I feel us being pushed
back and to the right, crashing the tail end of our truck into
the cliff face on the right, and jack-knifing the boat next to my
side of the truck and planting it into the cliff as well.
I also see the military vehicle going thru a weird undulation,
and then going airborne over the cliff on the left side of the
road. This whole thing was extremely surreal and, when the dust
settled, we were both very surprised to still be alive and
seeming to be in one piece. My shoulder hurt a bit, and I had
some blood dripping into my face, but not much given the impact -
and Ray was unhurt!
Now I yell at Ray - "Man, get outta the truck before it catches
fire and we are toast for real." My side of the truck was
totaled and no exit possible - his was OK but jammed - so I yell
"Roll down the window and jump out", and he does, and I follow.
We go over the side of the road and the whole cliff face is
covered in what seemed to be lifeless bodies - totally
disheartening and beyond belief that this is happening. The
other wierd thing is the front axle of their vehicle is still
sitting in the highway with the rest of the vehicle at the
bottom of the hill!
Next some policeman of some type shows up - starts screaming at
us "Who was driving?" - I raise my hand - he grabs me - pulls my
injured shoulder behind my back and handcuffs both hands
together, and shoves me in the back of his car.
I say "Excuse me - please attach my seat belt" - he gives me
some scum of the earth reply and we take off on the wildest ride
of my life in what is now a downpour - hitting speeds of up to
160 KPH back to San Vincente. I just figured it was really all
over now - I was only going around 40-45 KPH and we are now
going four times that fast!!!
Somehow we get there in one piece and we end up in some dead-end
jail - just a cement box with a steel door and a hole with rebar
for a window - they throw me in with no notice or anything, and lock
the door - and after about three hours I figure they threw away
the key and went home for the rest of the weekend.
I am in this cement box of a jail cell in San Vicente - there is
no water and I am thirsty beyond belief. It is raining outside
and the thing that is a "window" is a wooden framed hole with
five one-inch rebar pieces set into it.
Around 5 PM the rain really picks up so I stick my hankerchief
out the window to catch the drops of water rolling off the roof
and then suck on it to get a drink. My left shoulder is hurting
more now (the rotator cuff is torn), and my left elbow is
dripping blood - but I can use my left foot to stand on a little
cement piece in the corner about two feet off the floor (I guess
you are supposed to pee into it?), and am able to look out the
window.
I can tell if one of those rebars were removed I could squeeze
out between the other two and get outta there. I'm not the
kinda guy to take shit lying down - and since they didn't even
ID me I figure I would give it a shot. So I start using my keys
to saw two slots in the wood frame parallel to the middle rebar
and then pry out the wood chips between the slots to form a
channel to break out the rebar from the frame so I can escape.
I figured everyone had gone home and I could just go over by the
gas station in San Vincente and hop into the first car with
California plates and offer up a hundred bucks for a ride to the
border. The idea of spending a long period of time in that
cement box just wasn't getting it. (God how shitty it must be to
be a prisoner of war somewhere!!!!).
About 6:45 I hear some banging going on at the outer metal door
- I guess they didn't go home after all! They come in and grab
me and take me to the outer room. Some guy with a modicum of
English asks me if I am OK - I reply NO, tengo mucho dolores en
mi 'shoulder' (I pointed to it since my Spanish is as rusty as a
40 year old tin can, and I can't remember the word for shoulder).
So somewhere I hear the word 'medicos' and they hustle me into
the back of another cop car (at least this time I was allowed to
put on the seat belt) and off we go again. Only 140 KPH this
time, down the left side of the road with lights flashing! --
What is with these guys? Do they all have a death wish?
We get back to the accident scene - it's more surreal than it
was when I left - at least 10 emergency vehicles - medi-vans -
even Americans (look like firemen), and still bodies on the side
of the cliff!! So far I hear that no one is dead (a complete
miracle from my point of view if it is true!). Ray is still
there - all wet - he comes up and tells me that an American had
stopped and offered to take all our stuff outta there (it was
"Wild Bill") - I reply great - really not sure what good that was
going to be for me - but better an American get it than a
roadside bandido.
They put me in the medi-van and the paramedic grabs an ace
bandage and wraps it around my arm immobilizing it, and now "I
am fixed!!" So they jam me back into the cop car and I luck
out a second time in a row, and get to use the seat belt (this
cop was quite nice and led me to believe that they just needed
to take us to Ensenada for some formalities about logging the
apparent accident, and then I would be released (sounded too good
to be true - and was!!!).
My buddy Ray (I aughta call him "fast talking Ray") also managed
to talk his way into the cop car to go along for the ride (a
very good thing for me), and away we go again.
Another 140 KPH ride almost exclusively on the left side of the
road, with lights flashing, passing by all north bound traffic
like it was standing still -- What is with these guys?!!!
We get to Ensenda about 8:45 or 9 PM and it looks like some
warehouse down around Hussong's, where they take us into what I
think they called the interrogation room, and sit us at a picnic
table. And then Ray begins fumbling around trying to find his
insurance info in this mass of unorganized paper he has in a big
plastic bag - I keep saying - "Yo Ray, you do have insurance
right??" He goes "Yes - I just can't seem to find it though."
Other than the story value here, there are some Very Important
Lessons to be learned and heeded by Baja adventurers - as I
unfold the story I will also point out what I believe to be the
important points for others to note before they repeat my mistakes
(or make their own). Needless to say, I musta done something
right because I am no longer in prison, and am back home!!
At this point in the story, you should have picked up this point:
If you are going to drive someone else's vehicle in Mexico,
- MAKE SURE THEY HAVE INSURANCE;
- MAKE SURE YOU SEE THE PAPERWORK;
- MAKE SURE THAT IT COVERS A WHOLE LOT OF PROPERTY DAMAGE AND
PERSONAL INJURY, AND THAT THE COMPANY IS REPUTABLE;
- DO ALL THIS BEFORE GOING INTO MEXICO!!
|
I am now in the interrogation room in some weird warehouse in
Ensenada - Ray is fumbling around trying to find the insurance
stuff and I am starting to worry about "What if he can't find
it!!" Then he leaves to look in some of the other stuff he
salvaged outta the vehicle before we left the scene, and I am
thinking there is no way I am going to sleep tonight. Finally
Ray reappears with a smile and says - "I found it" - I'm
relieved, and the cops are on the horn to get the insurance agent
over there right away (it's after 9 PM - but no one seems to work
what I consider normal hours anyway - just try to get something
happening between 2 and 5 PM - impossible).
Her name is Olivia Salcedo Ramirez - a totally competent and
confidence-inspiring professional. She shows up and then the
show gets on the road - she knows everything that is happening
and is supposed to happen - takes Ray aside and tells him
exactly what he has to begin taking care of for me tomorrow -
and where to look, arranges that I be taken to a hospital (I
didn't understand the complete significance of this until
later), and that Ray also be given the privilege of staying in
the hospital room.
We are then transported to the hospital where I am checked in
(things become confusing again) - they decide I need x-rays
(necessary for reasons that were not yet clear to me - basically
to substantiate that I needed to remain there instead of going
directly to prison - which again I didn't understand until later
into the ordeal).
The x-ray machine itself, and the guy running it, were truly
comedic. The thing looked like a World War II reject - and the
guy looked like a baboon with all his hair falling out. I think
I know why - because to take the x-ray he would insert a key and
basically shake the machine, like some sorta pinball wizard,
while standing right next to it. When it finally went off and
fired the x-rays, it seemed to only work about one outta three
attempts, so I guess he was too lazy to go hide behind the lead
wall to engage it like they do in the states - he probably glows
in the dark!!!
Anyway they take three x-rays, develop them, and then stare at
them until they deduce the "problemo" - and lo and behold I
appear to have a cracked scapula - therefore I must stay in the
hospital!!
This is all well and good because the diagnosis and opinion of
the doctor cannot be challenged - so I am good to go (I guess I
should say STAY - as the case may be). So I get checked into a
room that comes equipped with a police guard - Ray who was to
stay in my room gets shuffled off somewhere (I dunno where or
what has happened to him), and then three burley guys show up and
grab my arm and start trying to insert IV needles into it.
I start yelling at them that I don't want or need that - they
just keep doing it and I keep yelling - I am yelling what I
think shoulda meant just gimme pain pills - not needles (deseo
papillas - NO nedelos, NO nedelos). Dunno what it really
meant, but finally someone else showed up and waved em off.
They took the needles outta my arm and went and got some water
and a pain pill. I took it and went to sleep with the guard on
the couch next to me - wondering what the heck had happened to
Ray and what tomorrow would bring.