Thought we would share a little of our trip with you and the folks as we have received so much help from this site.
We crossed the border at TJ and pulled into the "To declare" area, parked the truck, and with some help found the migracion office. They stamped our cards with no problem. (Good thing too, because the Ensenada office was closed when we arrived there). We got our tourist cards at our local AAA office. This was on a Sunday which we found was the best day to travel the northern section. Much less traffic then returning on a Thursday. We encountered heavy traffic from San Quintin all the way to Ensenada coming home.
The following are where we encountered Inspection Stations.
It should be noted that only at La Paz and Punta Prieta were the searches "thorough." Also, we drove an open bed truck with two large lock boxes. Toys, coolers, gas cans, etc., were left out and covered by a tarp with bungees. I suspect we were searched more because our contents were not visible.
The road was in reasonable shape with the exception of the following;
Gas was available everywhere. El Rosario has a little rip off scam going on. We do not speak Spanish, and they saw us coming. They tell you to prepay at the window. My wife sat in the truck watching the meter carefully while I went and gave them a 500 peso bill (I needed 20 gallons). Went back and the attendant filled up the tank which stopped at 378 pesos. My mistake was I was nervous and this was our first stop. I was concentrating on too many things at once. When I got my change, it was the first time I had to do the math. I got frustrated and did not realize they had shorted me 50 pesos ($5) until we left. My advice to other non-Spanish speaking travellers is - There are plenty of stations. Don't worry about getting your tank TOPPED OFF. Decide on what you think you will need and give them ONLY that amount saying "solamente doscientos ($200 pesos)" etc..
We found with a little practice we could estimate fairly close to what we needed and didn't give them a chance to confuse us. Maybe we had to stop once or twice extra on the trip but we never got ripped off again. (Can't say if their meters are accurate - but then EVERYONE IS GETTING IT THEN).
The Green Angels were evident only 3 times on the whole trip to Punta Colorado. I would not recommend putting a lot of faith in their help - but who knows. This of course was our first trip, but I did do one thing right. BROUGHT LOTS OF REPAIR STUFF. Needed a belt for my truck, duct tape to help out a gringo, my air compressor and a hammer to help an elderly couple with their tire problems. (She had taken her eyes off the road for a "second," gone off the road and completly shreded two tires -- THE REPORTS ARE RIGHT - if you can't concentrate don't drive this road!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!)
We definitely underestimated how far we could go in one day. The AAA book advised estimating at 40 MPH. Reality was that we could easily do 350-400 miles in one day. Our goal was Baja Sur, and if that is most peoples goal, plan on one stop between the border and Loreto. Face it, there's not much to see south of San Quintin until San Iganacio.
Speaking of San Quintin, reports are correct about the crime. Seems this area is the poorest around, which leads to theft. We stayed at the La Pinta who have now posted a security guard in the parking lot (some nights if he shows), as the locals walk the beach and "raid" at all hours of the night. The desk clerk was quite serious about where and how we parked our truck so he could see it from the desk. No problems were encountered. We personally were disappointed with the Old Mill. Meals were expensive and not that good.
We didn't find the great deals of the old days. Even the local mercados offered little savings. We were able to still find GOOD food at reasonable prices and if you're willing to return your empty beer bottles, the DEPOSITOS are the way to go for your cervesas.
For those like us who have many dreams of the Baja, doing the trip will open your eyes to its many splendors and disappointments. We will certainly return soon.