This report covers an off-pavement trip to Baja California and BCS. The trip vehicle is a dilapidated '85 Dodge B150 van (6 cyl 225 cid, 3 speed plus OD) that is mostly stock with five major exceptions. They are: Moose bumper on the front, screen under the engine to prevent rocks in the engine during long hours at freeway speeds on dirt/gravel roads, excess cargo carrier in rear hitch receiver for spare gas and vehicle repair/rescue items (reinforced three point mounting to prevent damage on unpaved roads), and two improvements from those off-road gurus Manny, Moe, y Jack: namely spring boosters in front and add-a-leafs in the rear.

The trip destinations were: The ruins of San Vicente Ferrrer, The falls/grotto/art at Las Pintas, Ruins at San Fernando Velicata and the art nearby, Playhouse cave at Cataviña, A look at the new facilities at Sta. Rosalillita, the NP at Laguna Ojo de Liebre, the renovated Mission San Ignacio, Sra San Francisico & Cueva Raton, and the mine at El Marmol & Rancho Sonora. Of course the grub schedule included stops at El Grullense in El Rosario and Maurecios in Nuevo Rosarito.

Here is some general info: for those of us visiting the mid-peninsula getting the FM-T via Discover Baja or at TKT crossing is a good idea. Since we crossed on Saturday and went straight away to the "gas gap" region, one of us had not paid when we entered BCS. The immigration guy was gruff, but let us go into Guerrero Negro to pay.

The Pemex Sta. Catarina in Maneadero accepts Visa for a 5 peso fee. No gas problems were encountered, but I always jump out and chat with the attendant anyhow. Most pumps are now electronic and beep when reset to zero and must be reset to start pumping. I agree with the guy who said carry pesos for gas if the calculator math is PITA for you. (Also it seems carrying Pesos is once again worthwhile as the exchange at most businesses was at least half a peso lower than the casa de cambio exchange rate.)

There is a good bakery across from Pemex Sta. Catarina in Maneadero. I think it is called Sima or Pan Sima. The PGR/PJF checkpoint is open south of town, and the army was open at San Ignacio and Stateline. The army spots at El Rosario, Cataviña, and north of Rosarito were closed. The fruit fly silliness at stateline was in effect -- a technician I talked to in Vizcaino says he is already getting Mex and Med fruit flies in his traps. There was gas at Cataviña La Pinta, but it was only open for 3 hours in AM and 4-6 PM. There was a $2.50 gal guy at Cataviña and a $3 gal guy at BOLA junction.

There was gas in El Rosario and Villa Jesus Maria both times. El Rosario Pemex continues on its P.I.T.A. pay first program (it's good for those of you who fret about being ripped off, but bad for those of us trying to stuff the tank to pass through the gas gap).

As for the trip itself, we checked out the Ruins at San Vicente and found the complex being developed, I guess by the mission foundation. It is worth noting there is good signage now at all the mission turn offs from the transpeninsular (TP). If not sure, get directions locally.

Saturday night we camped behind some mudhills off the road to Bahia del Rosario. Sunday we got up and tried to get to Las Pintas via the arroyo "road" farthest from the TP. See the baja map book that comes in two volumes, or look for a house on right just as the road goes down into the arroyo at the foot of the grade. The road (tracks) starts on the left next to the fence. The road stays in the arroyo, and near the end there is a stretch where it is hard to discern the tracks (which is important if you are 2WD).

We turned off two times onto ranch "driveways" going to the south bank of the arroyo. Sloppy driving technique by me got us stuck both times and the four hours for three van lengths digout on the second one induced us to abort our quest for Las Pintas. Make three point turns CAREFULLY! :-) 'twas good exercise.

We returned to the TP and had a fine Machaca supper at Loncheria Sonora. Santiago and Florentina run this fine establishment, and you can camp just off the TP for $4 - this is also the turn off for El Marmol.

(Sorry this is out of sequence, but Saturday we had supper at El Grullense in El Rosario. It is around the corner and just down from the school, and it is the ABC bus stop -- the food is awesome! You can get cooked to order if you ask, but the precooked homestyle Mexican food is the best! Her salsas are great and the service is fast if you order from the serving line.)

We rolled on down to Cataviña, bypassing San Fernando Velicata. We got gas at the Pemex just before 6 o'clock, and paid our 3 dollars to "dry camp at Ranch Sta. Ines. The fee includes cold showers, and the sunrise walk we took was just gorgeous. The central desert is not as verdant as we've ever seen, but it was lovely.

Monday morning we rolled down to Rosarito to enjoy the fine food and humongous portions at Maurecio's. Leaving the restaurant we met Maria y Enrique from Tijuana, and took the flat and fast road out to Mission "San Borja." It was an excellent side trip. The road passes through a great cardonal/cirioso (forest of cardones and cirios). There is a high center and some washboard but, except for some short sections that require careful path selection, I think I could get an older Winnebago Brave in there no problem.

Jose was our guide and he gave us a nice tour of about 45 minutes. There are ramadas and banos termales if a person wanted to negotiate an overnight stay. We left and went back to the TP and cruised south to the National Park at Laguna Ojo de Liebre (Scammons Lagoon). Watch for the sign on the right about 10 miles south of Guerrero Negro. The road in is very good, but watch carefully for heavy equipment and to make sure you stay on the road through the salt works to the park and whale watching area.

There is an OK restaurant run by the ejido that operates the campground. The fee was three dollars and if you move down the access road away from the entrance station you can almost get the feeling of being out by yourself. Usually it has a good "skyscape" and birdwatching. Pit toilets are provided.

Tuesday we rolled out to Vizcaino to gas up and we ate at La Huerta restaurant across from the Pemex. Very good food and portions, but they do tend to be slow. Nice staff.

We rolled to San Ignacio to get our permits from INAH to go see Cueva Raton. The office is just south of the church in a small room sunken below street level. If you get to the museum door you have gone too far. It took a bit of waiting for the man to return to his office, but getting the permits was easy. I think it was about $40US for three people and two cameras. We then returned north up the TP to the turnoff to San Francisco de la Sierra. You must get the permit in Sn Ignacio first. They check at the village. The access to the cave is locked so don't even think of trying to defeat the permit system.

Going to Cueva Raton is worth it just for the drive up and the views coming down, Yes the road is rough in spots and requires some patience to negotiate, but the panoramas of the Vizcaino plain coming downhill justify the trip. I am more interested in rural life-ways than the pinturas rupestres, but still I was very impressed by the cave paintings. It is advisable to read Harry Crosby's book and brush up on your Spanish before you go.

Our guia, Rudolfo, was very patient and informative. Some Spanish ability may be needed to get the info from your guide, hence the possible need to read up on the subject if your Spanish is poor. Mine is not quite fluent, but between it and the book our visit was fine. As great as Misson San Borja and Jose the guide had been the day before, I would have to say the Sierra was my favorite part of the trip. As afternoon faded to dusk we returned to the Hotel Olivia and its La Huerta restaurant (frente de Pemex). The room was 230 pesos for two beds, a "matrimonial" and a single. Clean/plain bathroom with lots of hot water. Good food at the Huerta again.

Wednesday we returned at a very leisurely pace to Guerrero Negro so our friend could pay her fee on her FM-T. We then went north to Cataviña and the "Playhouse" cave. Like Las Pintas it is said to be made by Pai-Pai, who are different from the pre-Cochimi painters of Cueva Raton. There is a camping and curio sales palapa just north of the arroyo as you leave Cataviña going north. It is the best place to park to access the cave. Heading north again, we picked up some suds at the tiendita at Rancho Sonora, then headed out to spend the night at the mine site. This area has great starfields and is a great place to camp. Although washboarded, the 10 mile road in is flat and fast, and passable in 2WD in all weather short of sustained torrents. Watch for loose rocks on the roadbed.

On Thursday we returned north to a family house in the El Pescador development just north of Puerto Nuevo. We had a good dinner at Restaurant Anamar at K38. Friday we returned to SD via Otay Mesa. I stopped by the Dodge junkyard to get a set of 1 ton springs for my rear axle. Several trips like the one described here and a 10k mile juant to Prudhoe bay this summer finally caused one of the add-a-leafs to lose its stiffness. Other than that there were no problems, not even a flat. And I sure did not nurse my Pirelli scorpions (LT version) either. In fact I left knowing there was already a nail in the LF tire. (I carry all the tire stuff and am experienced in dis/remounting tires by hand.) Do not do this if you can' fix your own.

If you can plan a little in advance and travel with a buddy vehicle (do as I say and not as I do-LOL) any stock pickup or short van can do this trip. To minimize thrown stones and paint dings plan on extra travel time if your rig has nice paint or chrome goodies. We hope this helps someone, maybe we will see you down in "the land of shorter shadows."