On the night of December 27 at approximately 9:30, while sleeping in our trailer on the side of Mexican Highway 1 about 20 miles south of El Rosario, my husband Bill and I were robbed of approximately $400. We awoke to the sound of three men smashing their way into our trailer, by breaking a window and opening the door. They were Mexicans in their twenties armed with knives and a machete.
In addition to the money, they took my rings, a rechargeable Makita flashlight, ransacked some food boxes, broke two windows and the door on the trailer, broke the passenger window and wind wing on our GMC truck and slashed a tire on the truck, in addition to generally terrorizing us.
During the robbery (which took place over 15 minutes or so) the robbers would turn the lights out in the trailer whenever a car would pass. They spoke no English other than the word "money!" The only Spanish words we understood were when they left, the leader said "Nada paso aqui" (Nothing happened here!).
Once they left in their car (which we did not see) we proceeded to try to leave, fearing they might come back to kill us. We were unable to do so because of the slashed tire, and flagged down a Mexican family who stopped reluctantly, probably out of fear themselves. The father then proceeded graciously to help change the tire, refusing to accept any money. The family then followed us back to El Rosario where we drove around until we found a policeman leaving the bus station in his truck with another policeman and a European man. The European had been robbed of all his money and car keys on the highway north of El Rosario by another group armed with guns. The policeman gave us directions to his home, and told us to wait while they went to the European's vehicle.
We were unable to locate his house and ended up spending the night next to a sea urchin processing plant, where workers kindly told us to stay, under the vigilance of a night watchman.
The next day, we bought a new spare tire, and continued south on our trip to our beach lot at Punta Chivato near Mulegé. We informed the army at each drug and gun checkpoint we encountered. After relating our experience to various Mexicans and soldiers, we were told over and over how dangerous this really is.
Sleeping by the side of the road is something we have done for many years. We began this practice after a stay at a disgusting government campground where I found a syringe near our site and a variety of other horrors in the bathroom. We found the beautiful desert a far more appealing campground. We have seen many others camp in this manner, and have learned it is a common practice among Baja veterans.
Although we were not hurt physically, the incident has frightened us severely, and definitely changed our many-year relationship with Baja. We are anxious to spread the word to prevent others from this trauma and have some advice:
We love Baja and look forward to visiting again soon, but fear things may be changing. We are concerned about rules not enforced previously (such as tourist cards), that are now being enforced along with a "request" for money. It seems everyone has their hand out. Our attempt to register our trailer (due to threats it will be confiscated March 1st if we do not) was futile. We submitted the forms in Santa Rosalia (along with ten dollars the customs agent requested for "gas money"), but he never showed up.
Are things changing in Baja? Or do these problems come and go? Who has influence with Mexican Tourism officials to relay the problems there now? We're looking for reassurance, and will appreciate comments from other Baja travelers.
Janine Waggener Email: waggener@spider.lloyd.com P.O. Box 532 Placerville, CA 95667