At La Gringa we made a pass through the deserted fish camp and
down the strand between the lagoon and the protected bay. The
Herons and Egrets were there, the crabs and clams and small
shells strewn along the beach of smooth round stones drifting
toward the calm water and the overflowing memories we had
collectively formed across the many summer months at the
northern extremes of Bahia. It seemed there were always three
herons. They must somehow measure the real estate. I
remembered Robert Aurdry and The Territorial Imperative, a great
book describing the nature of animals and territory.
Nothing was changed on the beach, it was all there in front of
us in its simple, natural majesty. We had all missed La Gringa
so badly, had had many family rememberences of the old green
huts, of families living there in the early years (to us), of
the fish processing plant and the Japanese family that struggled
to harvest sea urchins for shipment east to their homeland, of
the many moments in time we had lived and learned there, in the
magic of a kingdom off, on its own.
We drove back to the small side road traveling inland, westward
then north and across the several kilometers of sand and rock
and down the rugged volcanic path to our new home. This was the
first time Michael and Kevin had seen Las Cuevitas. We parked
along the beach above the high tide line on new and larger
smooth round stones.
It was evening and we opened the tent trailer and stacked the
myriad supplies and gear alongside. It was about ninety degrees
but the sun was in its dying arc. Michael and Kevin, glad to
have the two-day drive behind them, shook off the boredom
running up and down the beach and into the shallow water,
chasing sea gulls and pelicans with Lassie on their heels. We
fixed a simple dinner, opened the camp chairs and watched the
sun set over the hills to the west and the magic it created on
the cumulous clouds to the east.
As it grew dark that first night we lit a kerosene lantern and
settled inside the tent trailer with the screens to protect us
from the bugs attracted to the light. Before long the boys were
slowing down, lying on their shared bed, reading. Mary Ann and
I talked about building the hut.
I set a camp chair near the water and put on an album of low-key
Spanish guitar and listened to the small waves lapping at the
stones. We were here now, arrived at a place we would spend our
summer and lock a lifetime into a few months with the four of
us, before the boys were fully grown and before I was too old to
share the sensitivities of youth. By 9:30 we were all ready to
turn the lamp off.
The first night on the beach at Las Cuevitas I knew we had
selected a good location for our summer. The swells from the
open gulf were slightly larger than at either the south end of
the bay, or La Gringa, still inside Bahia, but the change added
a degree of freshness, the water here was more open, more free
of encumbrances. Cliffs to our immediate north and south,
defining the ends of our little beach, were roosting places for
pelicans that came from the south end, where they often spent
much of their day. During the night we could here them
occasionally diving for bait. Our beach was protected from the
west by the hills of the plateau and by the northern and
southern volcanic points, and felt secure. A breeze stirred
through the mosquito netting of the trailer that I knew we would
be protecting us for only another night or two, cooling the air
while we each reviewed our hopes for tomorrow and then slept.