One afternoon we had gone to the village for a visit and for
tortillas from the tortilla-maker, Marie Elena, and were talking
at her house, from which she supplied the village with her
homemade product. She told us about a ranch, well out into the
desert on the road to San Francisquito, where they raised goats.
Occasionally they brought several into the village to sell. She
suggested that we should get a goat, that they were hearty
desert animals and would be fun for the boys. A few days later
we talked about it and decided to make the trip to see what
there was to see.
This ranch, San Pedro, is many kilometers south of the village,
enough that it was a drive of at least two hours and into a very
remote part of the desert. The roads were almost impassible in
anything other than a two wheel drive truck and hard work in
four, much of it in low range. The boys were tired of riding
and banging their heads on the sides and roof of the truck long
before we got there. We hadn't told them we were going there to
look at a goat. This was the same road Mary Ann and I had taken
on our first stay and it led 120 kilometers down the peninsula
to San Francisquito.
Several kilometers after the turnoff for Bahia Las Animas, an
hour out of the village, a small track joined ours from the
west. We took this and many kilometers later at the head of a
ravine where it encountered the sierra we found the ranch,
sitting atop a hillock and well out of the dry riverbed. The
house itself was a randomly hammered collection of short boards
and twisted pieces of ironwood and cottonwood that had collected
from time to time in the creek-bed after a storm. There was a
small artesian well that provided enough water for the three
ranchers, two men and a woman, two children about Michael and
Kevin's ages, and numerous cattle. Behind the house was a small
corral containing a few goats. This excited the boys, who went
immediately to the corral, joined by the other children.
We asked if they had any goats for sale and they said that we
could buy any we wanted. We walked with the men back to the
corral and asked the boys if they would like to get a goat to
take back to Las Cuevitas, which, of course, they would. Mary
Ann and I negotiated with the ranchers over the purchase while
Michael and Kevin ran off to play. We settled on a price of
about $25 and called to the boys to come and pick out which goat
we would take.
"Mom. Dad! Come see what we found!" They called from across
the property. We all walked to the other side of the house,
where the ranchers had a donkey tied to a tree. This animal was
smaller than any donkey I had ever seen. It was gray-brown with
a silver cross running along its back and down both sides of its
chest. The ranchers told us it was a Messiah Donkey and would
grow no larger than it was presently. The boys were already in
love with the tiny animal and Mary Ann and I, too, found it hard
to resist. I asked how much they wanted for it and we settled
the deal at about $20 immediately. Curiously, they wanted more
for the goat than the burro. But when I thought about it, they
would eat the goat, but not the donkey.
Now the problem was getting our new pets back the many
kilometers and hours to Las Cuevitas.
I rearranged the supplies in the back of the Land Cruiser. We
could get the young goat, a Nubian, in easily, but the burrow
was another matter. We lifted him up and he balked at climbing
into the back of a covered utility vehicle. When we persisted,
pulling him with his rope from the back seat and pushing him
from behind, he grew so confused and uncomfortable that he
resigned himself to settling in the rear of the truck. He could
not quite stand, so he tucked his hooves under his chest and lay
down. This was our first understanding of the intelligence of
donkeys.
We bumped and bounced our way over the long dusty track back
toward the bay, through the village, where we stopped to show
Marie Elena our new pets and to buy some hay, and went on to Las
Cuevitas and our hut. It was a long day for us all and we were
tired, including the animals.
It was late afternoon by the time we got there. We spent the
daylight we had left modifying the chicken coop to include room
for a burro and goat. We put a bail of hay in one corner where
they could graze whenever they wanted. The chickens seemed
confused at first but confronted with such large animals, soon
adjusted and climbed into their roosts where the goat and donkey
didn't care about them. Somehow we arrived at the names of
Billy the goat and Burlap the burro.
The next day they were wanting out of the pen as soon as they
heard us stirring. Burlap brayed until we let them loose. We
were now confronted with deciding how to keep them from
wandering off into the desert. We had learned that this was not
a problem with fowl; once they settled in an area they would
forage and scratch it over all day and always return to the
safety of their roost at night. Particularly since that was
where we fed them. But we knew nothing about the habits of
goats and donkeys.
We decided to keep them tied up behind the hut for a few days
and then see what they did when we let them loose. They didn't
like the ropes around their necks, but tolerated them and every
day we gave them a greater length. After the third or forth day
we left the ropes tied to their necks but untied them at the
other end, leaving a long length trailing behind them in the
dirt. They wandered, but never far, and we could tell where
they were from the rope tracks. Soon we found that it was
Burlap that made the decisions as to where they went; Billy
always followed behind. Now we released Billy's rope, leaving
Burlap with the burden, which he seemed to have adapted to
anyway.
Our homestead was growing and so were our responsibilities. We
had to feed the chickens daily but that was simply a matter of
making sure they had water and throwing out mash and grain once
a day. We dug a small shallow hole a distance behind the hut
into which we put our garbage. The chickens kept this clean for
us. Billy and Burlap could go to their pen whenever they wanted
alfalfa and they wandered the nearby hills, foraging, every day.
When we went into the hut for the last time at night, we dropped
a piece of plywood across the doorway that kept Lassie from
getting out during the night. We hadn't had problems with
foxes, wolves, mountain lions or coyotes, but we knew they were
around. We weren't expecting trouble, but there was no point in
taking chances. We heard coyotes calling nearby many nights. I
kept a twelve-gauge shotgun loaded with birdshot (with a trigger
guard locked in place) under my bed.
A few days after the first snake incident we decided it would be
a good idea to clear the area behind the hut of the small brush
and rocks so we would discourage small animal from crossing the
cleared area and entering our hut. I spent an hour or so each
morning clearing the land, before it was too hot for such work.
This was hard but rewarding work. I was still waiting to settle
into Baja mode so I didn't mind the daily objective and I was in
those days still used to living in the city, with a city lot and
grass right up to the cement in an organized arrangement and no
place for weeds. So I started raking at the several hundred
square meters beside and behind our hut. This was an effort
that occupied me for several days. When that was done I was on
a roll and arranged the larger of the rocks I had removed from
the area into a line that defined it. I'm not sure what our
"area" was, or who I was defining it to, but nevertheless I did
it. I was too used to structure.
By somewhere around the end of our second week at Las Cuevitas
we had built the hut, bought a half dozen chickens for eggs and
built them a roost, brought Billy and Burlap from the desert
ranch, extended the roost into a corral, cleaned up the area
around the hut and built a large staircase. I felt like we had
accomplished a lot. The worker in me declared a vacation.
Besides, there was nothing left that needed doing.