It was late in the afternoon on a Saturday as we pulled out of
La Gringa and wound down the road toward the village for
gasoline and a beer on our way north. Patricio was still
standing ready at the pump with the nozzle and his calculator.
We topped off, bought a couple of six-packs and accelerated onto
the asphalt ribbon winding north, climbing into the central
desert. It was late in the day but that didn't mean it was cool.
We wound our windows down and settled in for what we knew from
many experiences was going to be a long drive, back to the
border and beyond.
There were four of us I remember, but I'm not certain who. I
know there was me, of course, and Geoff. And I think it was
likely to have been Barsam and John too. I know Geoff was there
because he had given me an album that I always enjoyed, it was
James Galway and a female opera singer. I think her name is
Martha Aldrich, or something like that and the album (it was a
tape in those days) popped into and out of the player many times
over the week we had spent at La Gringa.
As my old tortuga ground her way up into the plateau of the
central desert from Bahia de Los Angeles, dust flying and gears
grinding, we were up for the trip, planned to perhaps spend the
evening in Ensenada and have a night on the town. But the desert
was something to behold in the late afternoon. There were storm
clouds forming over the gulf, working their way northward, with
an occasional blast of lightning and smaller swirls of rain
droplets scattered across our windshield. We drove on wondering
but unafraid. We were held up momentarily at somewhere around
San Ignacito, where the usually dry watercourse crosses the
highway there. But soon we were again without restraint and just
four pals plugging through the desert after a weeks fishing.
There is a small place in the route northbound on Mexico highway
1 that I have for some reason I've never understood just adopted
in my mind as a lovely spot. Its' somewhere between San Vicente
and Santo Tomas I think, and a deep Sycamore-lined canyon falls
to the west of the pavement and there is often a small running
stream. There are often cattle and goats there, and around the
bend going northward a tiny ranch that advertised "coco's," had
a number of them positioned on a folding card table as we passed
by.
As we wound up the road through my little spot we were listening
to the Galway album and the clouds were gathering and darkening
as we were moving northward. It seemed to me a moment frozen in
time that I would carry forward forever; a place that the four
of us visited, if only to travel through and the others
unknowing what this moment meant to me with the windows down,
the music flowing and the great Sycamores settled seemingly
forever in their nests in the creekbed below.
That was so many years ago. Our lives have all changed now. We
never stopped there. My friends never knew a picture would have
been nice. We had our music and memories. I guess we didn't need
yet another picture. So I guess it's stuck here in my head. What
better place?